Vetements, the Paris-based fashion label, has dramatically shifted the fashion industry’s landscape since its founding in 2014. Created by Georgian designers Demna and Guram Gvasalia, the brand has gained recognition for blending streetwear aesthetics with high fashion, infusing pop culture and irony into luxury clothing. In just a few years, Vetements has challenged conventional luxury fashion norms by creating garments that are both wearable and thought-provoking. As a trailblazer in merging street style with couture, Vetements has left a lasting impact on the fashion industry.
The Origins of Vetements
Vetements was founded with a clear mission: to offer an alternative to the fashion industry’s formulaic approach. Demna Gvasalia, after training at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and working for top-tier fashion houses like Maison Martin Margiela and Louis Vuitton, became disillusioned with the industry’s increasing detachment from real-world clothing. He believed fashion had become overly focused on unattainable concepts and exclusive branding, losing touch with how people dress in their everyday lives. In response, he and his brother Guram sought to create a brand that focused on practicality, authenticity, and cultural relevance.
The name “Vetements” means “clothes” in French, a reflection of the brand’s intent to strip away pretension and focus on creating functional yet bold garments. Despite this straightforward approach, Vetements immediately stood out due to its unique aesthetic—one that draws heavily on streetwear, oversized silhouettes, and an avant-garde sensibility that disrupts traditional luxury fashion.
Merging Streetwear and Luxury Fashion
Vetements Hoodie is widely credited with spearheading the luxury streetwear movement. Before Vetements, luxury and streetwear existed in separate domains. Streetwear was casual, urban, and accessible, while high fashion was formal, exclusive, and aspirational. Vetements defied this division by elevating streetwear to a new level of prestige, merging utilitarian and urban styles with luxury craftsmanship.
Vetements’ early collections featured oversized hoodies, bomber jackets, trench coats, and deconstructed denim that challenged the norms of high fashion. The exaggerated proportions, often inspired by street culture, introduced a new silhouette into the luxury space. This shift was revolutionary: Vetements made streetwear not just fashionable but a statement of status and individuality.
Perhaps the most iconic example of this was the yellow DHL T-shirt from the Spring/Summer 2016 collection, which turned an ordinary corporate logo into a coveted luxury item. Retailing at a high price point, this simple garment sparked a conversation about the value of branding, the absurdity of luxury pricing, and the power of irony in fashion. Vetements’ ability to transform the mundane into the extraordinary became one of its defining characteristics.
The Role of Irony and Pop Culture in Vetements’ Designs
One of Vetements’ core attributes is its ability to play with irony and pop culture references. The brand often subverts familiar logos and symbols, turning them into high-fashion statements. This approach resonates with consumers who are increasingly skeptical of traditional luxury’s elitism and exclusivity. Vetements’ designs challenge the idea of what is considered luxury by incorporating elements of mass culture, consumerism, and everyday life.
In its collaborations with mass-market brands such as Champion, Reebok, and Levi’s, Vetements has blurred the line between luxury and everyday fashion. The label takes well-known, accessible brands and reimagines their products with a high-fashion twist, producing pieces that are simultaneously familiar and exclusive. For example, Vetements transformed a basic Juicy Couture tracksuit into a luxury statement piece by altering its design and materials, turning a casual garment into a runway sensation.
By incorporating elements of mass culture into high fashion, Vetements comments on the growing commercialization of fashion and the role that consumerism plays in shaping identity. Its designs, with their heavy use of logos, slogans, and pop culture imagery, prompt wearers to reflect on the relationship between fashion, branding, and personal expression.
Disrupting Traditional Fashion Runways
Vetements is not only known for its clothing but also for its unorthodox runway shows. The brand has disrupted the traditional fashion show format by choosing unconventional locations and casting diverse models. Vetements has staged runway shows in places like a Chinese restaurant, a gay nightclub, and even a McDonald’s, highlighting its irreverent approach to fashion and its connection to real-life spaces. These unconventional settings allow Vetements to challenge the formality of the fashion industry, bringing high fashion into more relatable, everyday environments.
The brand’s casting choices have also made waves. Vetements Clothing has been praised for using models of varying ages, sizes, and backgrounds, breaking away from the narrow beauty standards that often dominate luxury fashion. By doing so, the brand underscores its mission of making fashion more inclusive and reflective of real life, as opposed to the polished and exclusive image promoted by many high-end labels.
The Departure of Demna Gvasalia and the Brand’s Evolution
In 2019, Demna Gvasalia stepped down from his role as creative director of Vetements to focus on his position at Balenciaga, raising questions about the future of the brand. However, his brother Guram Gvasalia has continued to lead Vetements, ensuring that it remains true to its roots while also expanding the label’s reach.
Under Guram’s leadership, Vetements has continued to evolve, maintaining its commitment to subversive fashion while growing its business. The brand has diversified its offerings, moving beyond its signature oversized silhouettes to explore new materials and designs. However, it has never lost its rebellious spirit, continuing to challenge norms and push boundaries.
Vetements’ Lasting Impact on Fashion
Vetements’ influence on the fashion industry cannot be overstated. The brand’s ability to merge streetwear with luxury has fundamentally changed how designers approach fashion, and its playful use of logos and pop culture has redefined how consumers interact with branding. Vetements has paved the way for other luxury brands, including Balenciaga, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton, to adopt streetwear elements in their collections.
Beyond influencing individual brands, Vetements has changed the cultural landscape of fashion. The brand’s democratization of luxury—by bringing in elements of mass culture and street style—has made high fashion more accessible, relevant, and reflective of the modern world. This shift has resonated particularly with younger generations, who value authenticity, individuality, and a sense of irony in their fashion choices.
The Future of Vetements
As fashion continues to evolve, Vetements remains at the forefront of innovation. The brand has consistently challenged industry norms, offering a fresh, rebellious perspective on what luxury fashion can be. Whether through collaborations, unconventional runway shows, or provocative designs, Vetements has established itself as a cultural force that shapes fashion’s future.
Vetements’ legacy will be defined by its ability to merge streetwear and high fashion while making bold cultural statements. The brand continues to thrive under Guram Gvasalia’s leadership, ensuring that its subversive ethos and commitment to innovation remain strong as it moves forward into the next era of fashion.
